Gulmarg Glimpses: Capturing the Essence of Kashmir’s Winter Wonderland

Adwait Abhyankar
9 min readMay 26, 2024

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Witnessing Gorgeous Gulmarg

As a solo traveller, my first experience sleeping in a dorm was surprisingly pleasant, with camaraderie and shared adventure among fellow travellers. The comfortable accommodations of Zostel and the friendly atmosphere made it a memorable and enjoyable stay at Zostel Srinagar. Our breakfast was ready by 8 am the next morning and we bid farewell to Zostel Srinagar for the time being after clicking a group photo with Varsha’s Polaroid camera, which beautifully captured photos — one memory at a time.

It was a 2-hour journey to Gulmarg. We passed by the iconic Lal Chowk of Srinagar before finally leaving Srinagar for the snowy adventures of Gulmarg. During the 2 hour travel, we played dumb charades and played music all along the way while enjoying the scenic beauty outside. We divided the group into 2 teams of 6 each and everyone acted at least once. The most hilarious act-out award had to go to Rahul just for the lack of his teammate’s efforts to recognize the movie name that he was depicting.

The travel to Gulmarg was filled with serene views outside. The weather had begun to turn lovely with the rains making up for sunshine. The last few kilometres into Gulmarg gave you literal European vibes. The road went through dense forests of pine and fir, offering breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks. The air grew crisper and the landscape transformed into a winter wonderland, hinting at the beauty that awaited in Gulmarg.

As we finally reached Gulmarg to take the grand Gondola ride, there was a rude shock that was coming our way- a long queue to take the ride reminding us why India remained the world’s most populous country where people from all across the country had made their way to Gulmarg to escape the brutal heatwaves that had been sweeping the country. Thankfully it was the only time during the entire trip that we had to face such a long queue.

Waiting in line for Gulmarg’s gondola felt like a Himalayan version of a Mumbai local train platform at rush hour — packed with enthusiastic travellers instead of weary commuters. The line snaked endlessly, with everyone jostling for position, but the anticipation of the stunning views from the top made the wait as exciting as scoring a seat on a Mumbai local during peak hours!

Gulmarg remains crowded throughout the year. But there’s a reason why so many tourists flock their way to Gulmarg. And you realise that it’s worth every penny only once you reach phase 2. Every Gondola has a capacity of 6. So when our turn finally came, we made our way to phase 1. Gulmarg Phase 1 remains 10,000 ft above sea level.

Panorama view of Gondola Ride Phase 1

As we stepped out of the gondola at Phase 1, we felt as if we had taken one step closer to heaven. We were encircled by snow-capped peaks all around us. The lush green meadows stretched out before us, blanketed in pristine snow over them. The towering pine and fir trees framed the scene and the crisp mountain air enhanced the feeling of being in an alpine paradise.

Winter vibes in serene summer

It felt like a painting received from a postcard. Well only if I could draw the scenery as pretty as it looked, I would not be describing this in a blog but rather displaying my art in an art gallery and minting money! The cool, refreshing mountain air, coupled with the serene ambience instilled a profound sense of peace and rejuvenation, making me feel truly connected with nature. We were so hungry now that everyone was feasting on whatever they could find — Maggi, sweet corn, kawa tea, coffee etc. The taste of that Maggi and the Kashmiri kawa with this pristine view has stuck with me and will probably continue to stick for a long time.

To experience snow in scorching summer was serene

In Phase 1, the gondola provides access to a variety of adventure activities, including skiing, snowboarding, trekking, hiking, mountain biking, and nature walks. After soaking in the beauty of phase 1, it was time to go further up to experience what real heaven felt like. However, for a brief time, the gondola ride going from phase 1 to phase 2 suddenly stopped working for 30 minutes leading to a sudden increase in queue. We were enjoying the captivating views of Phase 1. Many people did not have tickets for Phase 2 so much of the crowd usually makes way down from Phase 1 missing out on the heaven that lies ahead.

However, the line was so slow-moving that people began to feel frustrated. For all the extra CRPF jawans patrolling at the entrance, there was virtually none at the phase 2 queue. A few miscreants tried to jump the queue which led to a scuffle between them and the other people who were patiently waiting for their turn. With all the drama unfolding right in front of our eyes, this classic soap opera was worthy to be ignored thanks to the scenic views that demanded and were worthy of more attention. The crowd management at Phase 1 was quite poor but thanks to the views around, this was ignored.

The slow-moving queue of Gondola Phase 2

After the long wait, we finally boarded the gondola ride towards phase 2. That ride remains the most scenic ride that I have ever taken in my life so far. That ride was so surreal that it compensated for every frustrated soul around. The beauty of the ride lay in the fact that you could not see how far up we were going because we were surrounded by thick white cover- of clouds and snow combined. We kept on going upwards without knowing where the end lay.

The Phase 2 route- a ride directly into the heaven clouds & snow

Embarking on the gondola ride from Phase 1 to Phase 2 in Gulmarg felt like ascending into a mystical realm where nature reigned supreme. Green became white. It felt like you’ve jumped from May to December in a single ride. The gondola lifted us from the lush greenery of Kongdori (phase 1) and put us in a world of enchantment. The landscape transformed before our eyes, with each passing moment revealing a new layer of beauty.

As the gondola ascended from Phase 1 to Phase 2 in Gulmarg, I witnessed a mesmerizing spectacle unfold before my eyes. The air grew crisper, tinged with the scent of pine, as we ascended higher into the towering peaks of the Pir Panjal range. Snow-capped summits emerged on the horizon casting a spellbinding contrast against the deep blue sky. Every turn of the gondola offered a breathtaking vista, as if nature herself was putting on a grand spectacle just for us.

The heavenly ride as captured by Akash

As I gazed out from the gondola, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder and awe at the beauty of nature unfolding around me. It was as if time stood still, and I was transported to a world of pure magic and enchantment. Sunrays, like golden threads, sparkled upon the pristine snow below, creating a shimmering blanket of light. The snow, once untouched and pure, now glowed with an eternal radiance creating its aura over the entire landscape. The journey to Phase 2 was not just a physical ascent but a spiritual one, as I witnessed firsthand the transformative power of light and nature’s innate ability to inspire and uplift the soul.

Gondola Phase 2 heaven

It was touchdown heaven on reaching phase 2. We had to put on our snow equipment since we were in the snow now. A couple of minutes to get comfortable and to adjust to walking in the snow and what followed was absolute madness. We began snow fights making and throwing snowballs at each other. Aishwarya was picking and choosing her targets and surprisingly not missing any. Her accuracy was 100% and she managed to hit everyone that came in her way. Gautham, the classy photographer that he was, was capturing us and the view throughout. Tej was clicking all the candid moments and we were stunned later to see the moments getting captured without us being aware of it to absolute perfection.

The BEST times
Aiming high at the target

We also built a snow princess, which later turned up to be Annabelle on its completion. Two cute friendly pahadi dogs were enjoying their moment in the snow. We played with them for a while. We stood at 13,500 ft above sea level. It was at moments like these when you realised why Kashmir was heaven on Earth. The entire Kashmir Valley unfolded beneath us creating a tapestry of emerald valleys. We were encircled completely by snow-capped mountains with a blue sky and white clouds. Time stood still. It was a moment that took our breath away, leaving us in awe of the natural wonders that surrounded us.

Gentlemen
Snow Princess turned into Annabelle
The group basking in the heaven at Phase 2

After pausing our lives for a while to take in and capture the heaven, it was time to descend to the base. We all were exhausted by the time we checked in at our Gulmarg stay, reaching there just around dinner time. After having our dinners, everyone sat around and began sharing their life experiences. The common room had a karaoke set, which everyone took turns to, and sang old melodies. Ritu and Pradnya began singing old Hindi classics with their melodious voice. However, the buck stopped with Dr Rahul, who stunned everyone with his soulful song and melodious voice.

We also had one Mr Chiranth who was unraveling one electronic gadget after another like Doraemon did from his magic pocket. With the mic later in my hand, I had an interesting opportunity to begin conversations with him. At the end of our conversations, I had successfully recorded my first podcast and coined it as Episode 1 with Crazy Rich Europeans. That’s when Chiranth became famous as Crazy Rich European. In his defence, he used to reply- just crazy not rich, which became a tagline.

The karaoke nights with the group after witnessing heaven at Gulmarg. Dr Rahul entertains us with his melodies

After experiencing heaven, we finally called it a day in Gulmarg. After an intense day of travel, exhaustion wrapped around me like a heavy blanket, and the moment my head hit the pillow, I sunk into a profound, dreamless sleep. Time became meaningless as my body fully restored itself, waking up refreshed and rejuvenated, with the previous day’s fatigue a distant memory. Another chapter was waiting to be written as Pahalgam’s timeless beauty was yet to be witnessed.

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Adwait Abhyankar
Adwait Abhyankar

Written by Adwait Abhyankar

CA| Cricket Enthusiast| I write on Cricket, Travel, Pyschology, Wildlife, Economics & IR

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