Pahalgam Pleasure and Amazing Avantipore
After the Gondola adventures at Gulmarg the previous day, we had a big travel day. We started the day by visiting the Drung waterfall at Tangmarg, a town in Baramulla. The waterfall was surrounded by dense pine forests and rocky cliffs and offered a serene and refreshing environment. After spending some time there and clicking a few pictures, we halted at the Art and Craft Bazaar on the Gulmarg Road.
The Art and Craft Bazaar displayed Kashmir's cultural heritage, showcasing the region's rich tradition and exquisite craftsmanship. It offered a diverse array of handmade products that reflected the unique artistic legacy of Kashmir. Kashmir is famous for its luxurious Pashmina shawls, made from the fine wool of the Himalayan mountain goat. Each piece is a work of art, some shawls even taking months or years to complete. Everyone shopped around for a while looking at the pashmina shawls, carpets, and handicrafts like vases and trays. Chiranth, the Crazy Rich European, went on a shopping spree that cleaned out the entire store, single-handedly giving Kashmir’s local economy a turbo boost.
After enjoying a delightful lunch, we set off for Avantipore. During the journey, it struck me that upon arriving in Kashmir, one truly grasps the Europeans' longing for summer and sunshine. The very same sun that can feel oppressive in Mumbai or Delhi shines with a serene and gentle warmth in this enchanting part of the world.
We also passed by the very place where the deadly Pulwama attacks on the CRPF jawans took place in 2019 on the Jammu-Srinagar highway. We also saw the saffron fields along the way at Pampore. Pampore is also known as the Saffron Town of Kashmir. We halted at the Real Saffron Hub, a shop where we were explained on real identification of saffron/Kesar. Kashmiri saffron is known for its deep red colour and strong, distinctive aroma. Saffron from Pampore is renowned for its purity. Saffron is widely used in culinary traditions around the world. In Kashmir, it is an essential ingredient in dishes like Rogan Josh and Kashmiri Pulao and is also used to flavour and colour sweets and beverages, such as the famous Kahwa tea.
Kashmir is not only famous for its high-quality saffron but also for an array of exquisite dry fruits. The same shop also had a variety of dry fruits like walnuts, almonds, pista, raisins, blueberries, cranberries etc. Radhika didn’t just shop; she went on a dry fruit and saffron shopping spree, grabbing at least one packet of every dry fruit in sight and enough Kesar to fill an entire bag. She likely boosted the shop’s monthly revenue in one epic purchase, making the shopkeeper’s day, week, and probably month all at once! We also tasted the Kashmiri Kawa tea, a traditional tea from Kashmir, made by brewing green tea with saffron, cardamom, cinnamon, and sometimes almonds.
After devouring the kawa, we continued our journey to Avantipore.
The road wound its way through peaceful countryside scenes. Wide stretches of lush green paddy fields greeted us on both sides, accompanied by quaint village houses that added charm to the landscape.
As we approached Avantipore, there was a noticeable shift in the scenery. The surroundings became more enriched with history, offering glimpses of its ancient wonders. Avantipore boasted the remnants of the Avantiswami Temple, an archaeological gem dating back to the 9th century. This temple, devoted to Lord Vishnu, was a testament to Kashmir’s rich heritage, adorned with intricate stone carvings and architectural marvels that whispered tales of bygone eras.
Later, we visited an apple orchard on our way to Pahalgam. Dr Rahul was wary and a bit hesitant to visit it as it could keep him away. We finally reached Zostel Pahalgam late, at night around 9 pm. The sudden drop in temperatures was visible as Pahalgam was the coldest place in the entire trip. After having our dinners, everyone played UNO. Akash was the undisputed winner in the only round that we played. If only we hadn’t lost precious time dealing with Chiranth and his insistence on playing UNO with his “European flair” in India! Throughout the game, we had to keep reminding him of the local rules as he protested every move that didn’t align with his style.
Later, we decided to switch gears and dive into a round of bluff, a classic card game where honesty is as rare as our politicians. With Radhika, the rookie, Chiranth and Akash engaging in a battle of card-collecting supremacy, things got hilariously intense. There was a triangular contest to build skyscrapers out of card decks faster than a Virat Kohli running between the wickets. Later, Aishwarya too joined the lot. The competition was fierce, the cards were flying, and the drama was thicker than a double-stacked deck. It was an epic showdown of bluffing brilliance and strategic stacking, with laughter and chaos ensuing at every turn. The honest ones like Ritu were caught between the devil and the deep sea and had to bear the brutal brunt of the game. Pradnya and I were the silent slayers who smartly played to our strengths and eventually won the rounds. It was virtually 2 am before we called it a day.
The next morning, after a heavy breakfast, we set out to explore Pahalgam and its beautiful valleys. Pahalgam was a completely different beauty as compared to Gulmarg and Srinagar. Its breathtaking natural beauty was the best. The Lidder River that was flowing parallelly through the road added to its charm with its crystal-clear waters. The river was flanked by thick forests and rocky terrain. Driving on the road enveloped by dense forests of pine, fir, and cedar trees with the Lidder River was one of the most scenic rides you can have in India.
We arrived at the base of Baisaran Valley, ready for the next leg of our journey on horseback. The last time I went horse riding was about seven years ago in Matheran, so I was thrilled to get back in the saddle. We were in for a five-hour ride, which included both the ascent and descent.
Once everyone was mounted, our journey to the top began. Each hostler was responsible for two horses. I was paired with a sturdy little horse named Badal, while Ritu was on his equally robust brother, Raja. These horses, though small, were perfectly suited for the rugged terrain. The excitement in the air was palpable as we set off, eager to experience the adventure ahead.
As we made our way along the path, we were constantly rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and mountains. Each new vista was a reminder of nature’s grandeur. We crossed small streams and carefully navigated rocky pathways, all the while accompanied by the rhythmic sound of horse hooves clopping along. It added a perfect sense of adventure to our journey.
The lush greenery was magical and enchanting. Sunlight filtered through the canopy of trees, casting a magical glow over everything just like it did on the snow in Gulmarg. It felt like we had stepped into a fairytale forest, where every moment held a new wonder.
After a steep climb and a spirited session of singing songs, we finally reached Dabyan Point. It was just our group there, with no one else around, making it feel like our own private picnic spot in the heart of the forest. The view was simply breathtaking. We were surrounded by lush green grass, and we could see small river streams winding their way through the landscape. After a steep climb and a spirited session of singing songs, we finally reached Dabyan Point. It was just our group there, with no one else around, making it feel like our own private picnic spot in the heart of the forest. The scene was idyllic, with the soft sounds of the sheep mingling with the gentle murmur of nearby streams.
Dabyan Point in Baisaran Valley was a perfect blend of pastoral beauty and majestic wilderness, offering a tranquil retreat where one could connect deeply with nature. Ritu practised yoga there, meditating peacefully. In the distance, the majestic snow-capped mountains stood having the best seat in the house watching over the serene scene. It was a moment of pure tranquillity and beauty.
After snapping some photos, we mounted our horses once more and set off on a 3 km ride to Mini Switzerland Point. Baisaran Valley, often dubbed “Mini Switzerland,” is known for its sprawling, verdant meadows that bear a striking resemblance to the picturesque landscapes of Switzerland.
By the time we arrived, it was 3 pm, and everyone was famished. After our thrilling horse ride, we savoured some Maggi noodles and pakoras while basking in the beauty of Pahalgam. The lush green grassland and the stunning scenery made it an ideal spot for picnics and leisurely outings with family and friends.
With our stomachs happily full, we began our descent. The return journey was relaxed, as we had to lean back to make the descent easier for our horses. Ritu, with her playlist, was entertaining our hostler and our horses. An hour later, we reached the base point. Despite the stunning views and memorable experiences, everyone had one common complaint: after five hours of horse riding, our buttocks were sore!
The Baisaran Valley in Pahalgam ranks among the top 3 most scenic places in all my travels. And one can truly understand the beauty of that place once you experience it.
